Edit History

Min mast var sikret mot dekksgjennomføringen for og akter med stykker av ganske hard gummi. Litt jobb å få de på plass, masten måtte dras hhv forover og bakover ved hjelp av tau og vinsjer. 

Se f.eks. Dedekam, Illustrert seil- og riggtrim.

Eller manualen for Ballad (s. 7). 

Du kan prøve Southern Cross eller With Marine for passende gummibiter. 

Rod Stephens beskriver sikring av gjennomgående mast  i boken jeg lenket til over . Boken er dessverre ikke ferdig og ganske dårlig indeksert, men her er det relevante utdraget: 

Sitat

Ideally, to get the best stiffening effect of the deck in tandem with the mast step, the mast would be fully braced at the partners, as it is by the traditional all-around wooden wedges. But in practice, this isn’t such a good idea. There is no way to keep the masthead from sagging a little when pressure stretches the windward rigging. If the mast is held absolutely rigid at the partners it will bend slightly near the deck in response to the inevitable masthead sag and create fatigue, which can lead to a very serious failure. So to keep the mast in column, and to prevent fatigue in the mast at deck level, it’s best to give it slight but clear side-to-side play at the partners.

 

Except when high-tech competitive sailing requires a fancy hydraulic arrangement, the best way to provide this minimal play is to use two pieces of natural gum rubber of synthetic rubber (of a hardness of about 30 durometer) place in front of and abaft the mast on the centerline. The width of each piece should be a quarter of the mast circumference and its length enough to reach two inches above the deck and four inches below the lowest part of the partners. The thickness on the center of each rubber piece should be one and one quarter times the space between mast and partners. Thus, when they’re in place the mast will be under considerable pressure from the rubbers fore and aft, but can move athwartships slightly as needed to reduce fatigue.

 

Those rubber pieces can’t be forced into place, because they’re thicker than the available space, and the rubber simply gets thicker if you try to push it in. So you need to pull the mast forward and slide in the after piece; then with lines leading back to genoa winches, sweat the mast aft to compress the first rubber piece so that the second can be slid in forward of the mast. Release the tension, and the mast is centered and secured by the rubber fore and aft, with nothing on the sides. (Another reason to use rubber in the partners instead of the traditional wooden wedges is that the wedges, besides being inflexible, may squeak in rough weather and keep you awake.)

Min mast var sikret mot dekksgjennomføringen for og akter med stykker av ganske hard gummi. Litt jobb å få de på plass, masten måtte dras hhv forover og bakover ved hjelp av tau og vinsjer. 

Du kan prøve Southern Cross eller With Marine for passende gummibiter. 

Se f.eks. Dedekam, Illustrert seil- og riggtrim.

Rod Stephens beskriver sikring av gjennomgående mast  i boken jeg lenket til over . Boken er dessverre ikke ferdig og ganske dårlig indeksert, men her er det relevante utdraget: 

Sitat

Ideally, to get the best stiffening effect of the deck in tandem with the mast step, the mast would be fully braced at the partners, as it is by the traditional all-around wooden wedges. But in practice, this isn’t such a good idea. There is no way to keep the masthead from sagging a little when pressure stretches the windward rigging. If the mast is held absolutely rigid at the partners it will bend slightly near the deck in response to the inevitable masthead sag and create fatigue, which can lead to a very serious failure. So to keep the mast in column, and to prevent fatigue in the mast at deck level, it’s best to give it slight but clear side-to-side play at the partners.

 

Except when high-tech competitive sailing requires a fancy hydraulic arrangement, the best way to provide this minimal play is to use two pieces of natural gum rubber of synthetic rubber (of a hardness of about 30 durometer) place in front of and abaft the mast on the centerline. The width of each piece should be a quarter of the mast circumference and its length enough to reach two inches above the deck and four inches below the lowest part of the partners. The thickness on the center of each rubber piece should be one and one quarter times the space between mast and partners. Thus, when they’re in place the mast will be under considerable pressure from the rubbers fore and aft, but can move athwartships slightly as needed to reduce fatigue.

 

Those rubber pieces can’t be forced into place, because they’re thicker than the available space, and the rubber simply gets thicker if you try to push it in. So you need to pull the mast forward and slide in the after piece; then with lines leading back to genoa winches, sweat the mast aft to compress the first rubber piece so that the second can be slid in forward of the mast. Release the tension, and the mast is centered and secured by the rubber fore and aft, with nothing on the sides. (Another reason to use rubber in the partners instead of the traditional wooden wedges is that the wedges, besides being inflexible, may squeak in rough weather and keep you awake.)

Min mast var sikret mot dekksgjennomføringen for og akter med stykker av ganske hard gummi. Litt jobb å få de på plass, masten måtte dras hhv forover og bakover ved hjelp av tau og vinsjer. 

Du kan prøve Southern Cross eller With Marine for passende gummibiter. 

Se f.eks. Dedekam, Illustrert seil- og riggtrim.

Rod Stephens beskriver sikring av gjennomgående mast  i boken jeg lenket til over . Boken er dessverre ikke ferdig og ganske dårlig indeksert, men her er det relevante utdraget: 

Sitat

Ideally, to get the best stiffening effect of the deck in tandem with the mast step, the mast would be fully braced at the partners, as it is by the traditional all-around wooden wedges. But in practice, this isn’t such a good idea. There is no way to keep the masthead from sagging a little when pressure stretches the windward rigging. If the mast is held absolutely rigid at the partners it will bend slightly near the deck in response to the inevitable masthead sag and create fatigue, which can lead to a very serious failure. So to keep the mast in column, and to prevent fatigue in the mast at deck level, it’s best to give it slight but clear side-to-side play at the partners. Except when high-tech competitive sailing requires a fancy hydraulic arrangement, the best way to provide this minimal play is to use two pieces of natural gum rubber of synthetic rubber (of a hardness of about 30 durometer) place in front of and abaft the mast on the centerline. The width of each piece should be a quarter of the mast circumference and its length enough to reach two inches above the deck and four inches below the lowest part of the partners. The thickness on the center of each rubber piece should be one and one quarter times the space between mast and partners. Thus, when they’re in place the mast will be under considerable pressure from the rubbers fore and aft, but can move athwartships slightly as needed to reduce fatigue. Those rubber pieces can’t be forced into place, because they’re thicker than the available space, and the rubber simply gets thicker if you try to push it in. So you need to pull the mast forward and slide in the after piece; then with lines leading back to genoa winches, sweat the mast aft to compress the first rubber piece so that the second can be slid in forward of the mast. Release the tension, and the mast is centered and secured by the rubber fore and aft, with nothing on the sides. (Another reason to use rubber in the partners instead of the traditional wooden wedges is that the wedges, besides being inflexible, may squeak in rough weather and keep you awake.)

Min mast var sikret mot dekksgjennomføringen for og akter med stykker av ganske hard gummi. Litt jobb å få de på plass, masten måtte dras hhv forover og bakover ved hjelp av tau og vinsjer. 

Rod Stephens beskriver sikring av gjennomgående mast  i boken jeg lenket til over . Boken er dessverre ikke ferdig og ganske dårlig indeksert, men her er det relevante utdraget: 

Sitat

Ideally, to get the best stiffening effect of the deck in tandem with the mast step, the mast would be fully braced at the partners, as it is by the traditional all-around wooden wedges. But in practice, this isn’t such a good idea. There is no way to keep the masthead from sagging a little when pressure stretches the windward rigging. If the mast is held absolutely rigid at the partners it will bend slightly near the deck in response to the inevitable masthead sag and create fatigue, which can lead to a very serious failure. So to keep the mast in column, and to prevent fatigue in the mast at deck level, it’s best to give it slight but clear side-to-side play at the partners. Except when high-tech competitive sailing requires a fancy hydraulic arrangement, the best way to provide this minimal play is to use two pieces of natural gum rubber of synthetic rubber (of a hardness of about 30 durometer) place in front of and abaft the mast on the centerline. The width of each piece should be a quarter of the mast circumference and its length enough to reach two inches above the deck and four inches below the lowest part of the partners. The thickness on the center of each rubber piece should be one and one quarter times the space between mast and partners. Thus, when they’re in place the mast will be under considerable pressure from the rubbers fore and aft, but can move athwartships slightly as needed to reduce fatigue. Those rubber pieces can’t be forced into place, because they’re thicker than the available space, and the rubber simply gets thicker if you try to push it in. So you need to pull the mast forward and slide in the after piece; then with lines leading back to genoa winches, sweat the mast aft to compress the first rubber piece so that the second can be slid in forward of the mast. Release the tension, and the mast is centered and secured by the rubber fore and aft, with nothing on the sides. (Another reason to use rubber in the partners instead of the traditional wooden wedges is that the wedges, besides being inflexible, may squeak in rough weather and keep you awake.)