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Projekt: Scand 9200


doctordre

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First I introduce myself.

My colleagues gave me the name Doctordre. I am from Holland.(That's why its in English) My job is design and repair electronic parts for ships at Veth Propulsion. Also did it for some Norwegian ferries.

 

Recently I bought a scand 9200 Dynamic from 1992.

As you can see, with a teak deck.

It has two Mercruiser 7,4 liter engines of 330HP each.

Fueltank 575 liter.

Watertank 80 liter.

 

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The previous owner didn't liked it anymore and the boat stood there for 6 years in Spain. In June I took it to Holland. Now I am renovating the boat. Besides the necessary maintenance of changing all hoses, I will change the whole electric system. It is outdated, and with an internal network it needs less wiring and has more functionality.

Since its a Norwegian boat, there is more knowhow of this boat here. So probably there are some other Scand owners how can help me with some issues in the near future.

Soon I will post so more pictures if the project.

 

 

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First the engines. Since it didn't run for 6 year :sad:, The carburettors and hose where all lost due to gas fumes and UV sunlight,

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First we (my brother and me, some jobs needs at least two people) pumped in lubricant oil in the cylinders because we expected they would be stuck after such long time. Lucky for me, after 20 minutes they both started. Portside was running well. Starboard has more problems. The first problem was met with the carburettor.

 

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They both were severely affected by gasoline. So it needed a good cleaning. With some hours of cleaning.

 

22072013499.jpgAnd with a repair kit, they looked like new. After some testing however I found out that the carburettor float was not moving smoothly. One engine got to much gas, so it runs for half a minute and the drown its own gas. That was a setback. I asked a friend of mine what to do, spend more money on the carbs or buy new ones. He is into tractor-pulling and uses also US engines for his tractor. After such time it is better to buy new ones, because the channels and sprayers are widened due to use and influence of salt, so it would be more difficult to tune the old carbs. Now I wait for new carbs from the US.

Also I added a carb spacer cause the give 10-20HP extra in the lower revs, just because you create a bigger room where the gas and air is mixed. The mixture is of better quality than. That I have learned. In the meantime checked out the ignition. A thunderbolt 4. It contained some oxidation which could be fixed with WD-40. By the way, I used mild hydrochloric acid to clean the carbs.

Also change all the sparkplugs. 16 in all and it took me a lot of time. Despite the size of the boat, there still not enough room to do such job quickly.


Cleaning the GasTank. :thumbsdown:

When boat is just doing nothing, it's also not so good for the quality of the gas itself. Also the level sensor didn't work. So time to check the tank.

This was how it looked before cleaning.

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I never cleaned a gastank before, so I tried Acetone first and to my surprise it did a good job for the tank, but I can tell you; it is not good for you health, what a terrible smell. But all for the result.

Here you can see the difference after just a few minutes:(just the left side)

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I don't know what SCAND used for closing the hole of the tank. It looked like rubber. There are some additives in rubber that cannot stand bezine so well.

Maybe somebody has a suggestion? Some people advised to use VITON or EPDM as an O-seal.

Redigert av doctordre (see edit history)
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Nice :smiley:

A lot of horse power on a boat that size, what kind of top speed do you expect?

Must be very thight for space in the engine room.

We need a lots of photos :yesnod:

 

At this moment it does 91 km/h. enginewise, I am changing the carburator so it get 20-30 hp more. But that is in the lower revs.

Also the props will go from 21pitch to 23 pitch. and although I will lose about 200RPM it will bring me around 98km/h.

 

There are still some things I will try like speedrail.

 

Well, the goal is to make it do more then 100 km/h. that would be nice to go that fast which such heavy boat.

Indeed the engineroom is narrow for 2 big blocks. I have seen several with small block. The difference is enormous.

 

 

At this moment the drives are off to change al the rubbers and hoses.

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Does someone has experience with changing the watertank level sensor?

I don't know where the sensor is. if I open the main hatch I call see the waterpump, but no hole for a watertank sensor. the tank itself is under the floor, between the cabin entry and the hatch.

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  • 2 uker senere...
  • 4 uker senere...

Last week made short terms with the old wiring. Cut the old cables. They will be replace by a 4 wire cable like NMEA2000 except it will be 100% CANBUS 2B.

NMEA uses CAN as a transport protocol. However I never understand why NMEA2000 made their own stuff, while CAN is simple and robust. We use it at ships longer then 100meters. and don't have to use T connectors to wire every component.

 

BEFORE

 

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AFTER

 

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Since the engine are from the 90ties I only have to make in interface for trim and flaps.

They rest of the engine information is still working and available on the existing gauges.

All the (nav)lighting and stuff are using the same network.

 

 

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  • 3 uker senere...

This week I removed both engines. Not only for checking the engines but also updating the engine bay.

I will put in an aluminium cable support

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This is the cablesupport of aluminium. total length that will disappear in the boat will be about 10 meters

dimensions of this support is 150x15x2000 mm

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Taking the engine apart ain't difficult. Putting it back together is the trick. According to specialists, it looks good for 22 years old block.

But if I let them do what they want, they will change camshaft, cylinderhead, ignition and carbbody and add more then 100bhp extra.

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All electric wiring is removed including trim and tab controlwiring. And pulled new wires for the winch 35mm² and 3x1mm controlwire. Which was luckely easier then a thought it would be.

 

Also all seats and sidecovers( thanks oteren, your pictures helped me finding the suspension points). Many nuts where corroded. To be ahead of this problem i am going to use bilde

Side seats and covers were difficult to remove. The nuts and bolt where on most awkward places so it took me several days.

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now setting up the cable support system.When everything fits the will go out to be anodized.

 

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the supports will be this colour blue. about 10mtr will disappear in the boat.

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  • 3 uker senere...

another week passed.

Waited for some special tools(American units) en removed the exhaust pipes so the back was easy to reach.

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Then grinded the back to prepare for the larger rear surface.

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If things go well, it does take much time to be hit back. And it did.

With checking the polyester, I found a tiny hole just near the engine support. I made it bigger and water came out. So I had to open the floor. just to check. and there was about 20liters of water in it. :sad::sad: another point added to the list.

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But in the mean time also put in a transformer and an inverter(victron) to have 230V on board. And found small generator (benzin) of 2600watts(singe fase) with electric start and remote control. That will have its place also somewhere.

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  • 3 uker senere...

Finally, after a lot of blood sweat and tears. and imperial size tools

the drives are totally disassembled. they can now go to be sandblasted. And they will be powder coated too.

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the stems were corroded, so much that steering became difficult. 2new and 2 old as you can see.

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Also did so polyester preparations. the wood was not rotten, but better safe than sorry, and took out the whole floorpart.

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But it a lot easier to work when the drives are gone.

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  • 1 måned senere...

during the holidays.

repaired the floor. the first layer of polyester/resin is applied.

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Also enlarged the backplane. Also the first layer is applied.

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in between the jobs, the dashboard frames are finished.

 

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The frame for the three displays. left and right for engine information. and the centre display for general information like speed, fuel and some other

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The right frame is for the gps. it will be a raymarine e7. left frame is for the controls. left of the steering wheel will be the dedicated buttons. In the right side

will be display for various buttons and switches that are not vital. things like cruise control, trim (these are also on the throttle), navigation lights with overview.

And some other things. But coming soon........

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