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English :) FM motor type L5 question


Cok

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Hello Norway :flag_da:

 

Lately I bought this old norwegian wooden boat which contains an old norwegian FM engine type L5.

To bad the put a layer of ?polyester? on top. Maybe I'll take it of in the winter.

 

foto_1.jpg

foto1.jpg

 

There was a littlte problem with the engine beacause the last owner forgot to check the motor oil. So one of the piston rod bearings melted.

 

foto.jpg (turn picture clockwise 90 degrees)

foto2.jpg

 

So I've found a company who could pour a new "babbit" bearing so I could repair the engine.

If I'm lucky I have my rod back before the weekend and I can start to rebuild the engine.

 

No I have a few questions

 

Does the engine contain normal 15W40 motor oil?

 

And what kind of oil goes in the "forward/reverse" gearbox and how much? (in liters please)

 

 

Also any information about the engine and boat are welcome!

 

 

Thanks in advance for any information.

 

Greetz from the Netherlands

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Hello,

 

For the engine oil it's best to use singlegrade SAE30 in summer and SAE20 in wintertime.

For the gearbox you can use the same oil as the engine, it says in the manual that the engine oil also lubricate the gearbox.

So when you fill the the engine with oil the gearbox is also filled at the same time, but please check that the oil in the gearbox after filling. On my engine that is a smaller modell the lubricating systems are separate, when filling this kind of gearbox the oil level should be just high enough so the round "clock" inside touches the oil.

More info on the FM motors here(Norwegian): http://www.fm-motor.no/

 

Info on the boat is a little bit harder to help you with, did the previous owner say anything about where is was built?

 

I think the fibreglass was put on the boat for a reason, before you take it off, check very carefully the wood inside the boat.

Maybe you will get some big surprises if you take the fibreglass off.

 

Here are some photos of my boat:

img_0605.jpg

 

260520090471.jpg

Redigert av færd (see edit history)
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Hello Norway :flag_da:

 

That is "Hello Denmark...." :flag_da:

 

This is "Hello Norway...." :flag::wink:

 

I have a simular engine from "Marna", and I use 10W/30 mineral oil as recomended by the factory. I think you can use that on the FM as well without any problems.

Redigert av Honduras (see edit history)
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Hey there!

 

Next question :smiley:

 

Last saturday I've let the boat in the water and made the first test "drive/sail". :sailing:

 

The engine is running very smooth. The engine is a lillte bit "shaky" at higher revs. But stationary it's okay. I think the big bronze bolts that are screwed in the wooden beams (the wooden ?layers? where the engine stands on) are a bit loose in the wood. Maybe I need to replace the wood. But that's something for the winter. Also the engine is not standing on "silent blocks" (rubber mounts under the engine bolts) but I think that's just how the build them 60 years ago.

 

Anyway the question.

 

Stationary the boar sails about 9km/h. I think that that is a bit fast. As I like to go to the small waters in city centers. I would prefer 6km/h.

At full revs the boat is going about 11km/h. Is there anyway to slow the boat down a low revs? I've tried to let it go slower by pushing the lever from the front/rear clutch to the front, but not let it go into gear. But I think that I am damaging the gearbox.

 

How can I reduce the speed of the boat? Changing the propeller? Or is it possible to install a reduce gearbox?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

PS Færd, Have you got any detailed pics of your engine and your gearbox? How the engine in mounted on the wooden beams?

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The main difference between Færd’s and your propulsion are the gearbox and propeller, your propeller is fixed and Færd has a controllable pitch.

His lever, almost similar to yours, is only clutching the propeller to the engine and his extra crank lever is controlling the pitch. Thus, his gearbox has’nt the option to alter the shaft’s direction of rotation.

 

Do not try to control the speed by your gearlever and slipping friction, that will only destroy the coupling.

 

If I understand you right your speed range is p.t. limited between 9 and 11 kmt, which obvious is far out of a useful manouvering range. These engines are designed for a speed range between 600 and 1500 rpm (just an inkling, do not have exact data) - and with a fixed propeller your boat’s speed has therefore to be controlled by adjusting the engine rpm via the carburettor opening.

 

Marine carburettors normally have a throttle-lever which control the gasoline input, the lever is extended by some metal roundbars to an adjusting handle outside of the engine cover/weather protection.

 

I would expect rpm-regulating should be sufficient for at least halving your boat’s speed, also underlined by the fact that an engine’s output , connected to a fixed propeller, is directly depending upon the rpm.

 

Though, these engines needs strict adjusting of timing and carburettor to behave well.

Not to forget the spark plugs, it is essential that theese have the correct heatvalue, even small differences might cause trouble in smooth running – a new corresponding brand is sometimes enough.

 

If everything fails you might probably solve your problem by mailing this company:

http://www.westmekan.com/propeller-equipment/controllable-pitch-propellers/

That, however, involves new propeller, shaft / pitch controldevice (connected to your existing gearbox), but is capable of regulating the speed from 0 and upwards.. The system is well experienced in small fishing crafts who are in need of precise and smooth regulation.

 

And:

These engine’s bedplate normally are mounted directly on wooden beams, if necessary only supported by shim to correct the levelling shaft/engine. In addition to the engine bolts the beams are (clinch) bolted through the frames and hull. The validity of these bolts are controlled by the (clean) sound produced of a hammer blow at one end whilst holding a bigger hammer against the other end.

Mvh

Kaldfisk

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I had the same problem with my FM engine to, while my engine has fixed propeller like yours. It did about 3knots at stationary and 6knots max when the trottle was not even near half. Probably the only solution is for you to replace your propeller with a smaller diameter og pich, like Kaldfissk mentioned. What I did was to contact a company who replaces old boat engines with new ones. They had a lot of old, used propellers that I could by for a nice price. This solved my problem completely. Search the internet for similar companies near you and give them a call, maybe you are lucky :yesnod:

Det ER mer jobb med trebåt enn med plast...

Gamle prosjekter:

Oppussing av en gressviksnekke

Oppussing av en FM

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Thanks for all the input guys!!

 

Here in the netherlands they don't know much about these engine's.

 

So I think the best/easiest/cheapest option to change te propeller for a smaller one. The biggest problem I have is, as Kaldfisk sad, maneuvering into harbours or small waters.

 

@Kaldfisk your option about a regulating speed instalation sounds like the most expensive but the best solution. Although I do like that idea!

About the engine... It is running great and smooth. Maybe some small adjusting in timing. But lower then 600RPM is to low for the engine i think.

 

 

So I think I have to search for a smaller propeller in the winter time. When its out of the water. Any advice when to take it out of the water? Just before freezing temperatures? And how to stall it? Warm and dry ir cold and dry?

 

As you probably can guess...... I am new to boating :)

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  • 2 uker senere...

It's best if you take it up before the water freezes, or else you'll have to keep it in the sea until the spring :giggle:

 

The best for the boat while it is on land is to storage it outdoor. You don't want the wood under the waterline to dry to much, while this will cause some truble when the boat is launched into the sea at spring :diving: But keep the boat well covered for rain and snow.

Det ER mer jobb med trebåt enn med plast...

Gamle prosjekter:

Oppussing av en gressviksnekke

Oppussing av en FM

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